Surfing philosophy

CleanShot 2023 06 20 at

I’m just reposting this from Brendan Leonard’s last Friday Inspiration post because it brought me such great vibes today:

I think there’s something to Joseph Campbell’s idea of there being one universal model of stories we tell—the Hero’s Journey—but I don’t think it covers 100 percent of stories. I think there’s a pretty good model of short adventure/outdoor sports films that I’d call “Let Me Tell You About My Friend.” It’s just a short biography showing a little bit of a person’s philosophy of life. I love these things. I think this one, To Be Frank, about 73-year-old surfer Frank Paine, has a ton of good moments and quotes in it, and is totally worth taking 10.5 minutes to watch today.


Comments welcome!

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